EuroWeb Conference «Intertwined textiles. Influence of Asian fabrics in the European cloth industry (ca. 1200-1900)» – Programme now available

Intertwined Textiles
The influence of Asian fabrics in the European cloth industry (ca. 1200-1900)

20th-21st June 2024

Fundação Oriente – Museu do Oriente
Avenida Brasília, Doca de Alcântara (Norte)
1350-352 Lisboa, Portugal

Organizing committee:
João Teles e Cunha (Centro de Estudos Clássicos, FL da Universidade de Lisboa)
Maria João Ferreira (Museu de São Roque; CHAM – NOVA FCSH)
Joana Sequeira (Lab2PT/IN2Past, Universidade do Minho)
Ana Claro (CHAM – Centre for Humanities, NOVA FCSH)


Thursday, June 20th, 2024

9h45 Arrival and inscription
10h00 Opening session

1st Morning session – Influence of Asian techniques – Chair: Joana Sequeira 

Jane Malcolm-Davies (University of Copenhagen, Denmark) and Beatrice Behlen (Museum of London, UK)

A mingle mangle of material: sources for studying silk fibers and knitted silk garments in early modern Asia and Europe

Cristina Scibè (University of Seville, Spain), Caroline Solazzo (Independent researcher, Italy) and Thomas Lam (Smithsonian Institution, USA)

Gold threads manufacture across Euro-Asian territories: a comparative study of a group of fourteenth-century silk and gold lampas of Italian, Persian, and Central Asian manufacture

11h20 Coffee-break

2nd Morning session – Influence of Asian techniques – Chair: Joana Sequeira

Mingzhu Lyu (University of Zurich, Switzerland)

Mongol silks and lampas weaving in fourteenth and fifteenth-century Italy: a case study on the medieval vestments from the church of St Nikolai in Stralsund

Éva Deák (Eötvös Loránd University, Hungary)

Ottoman Turkish Influences on Hungarian Clothing (1526-1686)

12h45 Lunch break

1st Afternoon session – Dyeing Practices – Chair: Ana Claro

Mila Crippa (LAVQ-REQUIMTE, NOVA FCT, Portugal), Paula Nabais (LAVQ-REQUIMTE, NOVA FCT, Portugal) and Dominique Cardon (CIHAM-UMR5648, CNRS, France)

Lac Dye Colours: from Prestige to Prohibition. Historical Insight into International Trades and Dyeing Practices in Europe from Medieval to Early Modern Times

Rachel Silberstein (University of Washington, USA)

A Cheaper Shade of Scarlet: the East India Company, Chinese Consumers, and Global Product Research

15h35 Coffee-break

2nd Afternoon session – Commodities of substitution – Chair: Maria João Ferreira

Ana Barros Graça (FCSH, NOVA University of Lisbon, Portugal)

How the impressive Asian textiles were “replaced” by Portuguese society from the sixteenth to eighteenth centuries: An approach to a substitute production – the vegetalist and floral Portuguese-Asian colchas.

Philip A. Sykas (Manchester Metropolitan University, UK)

Palaces and patchworks: export prints of Strines Printing Company, 1868-1881.

17h20 Visit to the Museu do Oriente’s textile collection

Each speaker has 25 minutes and there will be 15 minutes at the end of each session for debate

Friday, June 21st, 2024

10h00 Overview of COST reimbursement practices

10h30 Coffee-break

1st Morning session – Trade, taste, and consumption – Chair: Maria João Ferreira

Ana Pires (Centro de Investigação em Património, Educação e Cultura, Castelo Branco, Portugal)

The Tree of Life and the Embroidery of Castelo Branco’s Bedspreads

Dries Debackere (University of Ghent, Belgium)

Domestic Cashmere. The Re-Use of Indian and European Cashmere Shawls in Interior Gowns and Furnishings, c. 1870-1900

Mei Mei Rado (Bard Graduate Center: Decorative Arts, Design History, Material Culture, USA)

Japanese textile Fragments, Lyonnais Silks, and Fashion

12h30 Lunch break

1st Afternoon session – Trade, taste, and consumption – Chair: João Teles e Cunha

Adith Vijayan Sheeba (University of Calicut, India) and Assis Mon Marcelin (University of Hyderabad, India)

The Plebian’s Exoticism?

Swamantak Ganguly (Amity University Kolkata, India)

The circular relationship between the European and South Asian textile markets and its social after-effects in the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries

15h35 Coffee-break

Closing conference

Giorgio Riello (European University Institute, Florence, Italy)

Factories, Fabrics, and Factories: Cotton Textile Procurement in India and European Industrialisation, c. 1650-1800.

17h10 Closing session

The full programme for the Conference is available here.