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International Conference “Smart Textiles from Antiquity to Modern Times” – Call for Contributions

SMART TEXTILES
from Antiquity to Modern Times

International conference at the University of Lille, France

27-28-29-30 April 2022

Textiles are smart. First, they constantly communicate. As for clothes, they quickly convey decisive information about their holders, and in consequence, they create constant interactions with viewers. They inform about ethnicity, age, gender, profession, religion, social status. In this regard, they also contribute to the fabric and reinforcement of social identities. They are a crucial part of the “Presentation of Self in Everyday Life”, as highlighted by Erwin Goffman. They personalize.

Second, in addition to their traditional properties, clothes are also particularly operative in terms of movement. They are optimized, and they have active functions. They are adapted to daily, sport and professional movements, to various types of performances, and to specific assignments. They ease, assist, monitor, regulate, protect, reinforce, and raise capabilities. They are intelligent.

Based on the latest discoveries and research, this international conference aims at investigating how smart textiles are through time, from Antiquity to our contemporary world. Indeed, how, why and in which extent clothes and textiles have been used and are still used as an extension, development and augmentation of human identity, intelligence, and physical capacities? How does this impact and what does this require in terms of production, consumption and use?

This will be investigated though three main topics, as following:

1. PERSONALIZED TEXTILES
How do clothes communicate and what are the different strategies used in this regard through time? What do they communicate, and why? Do they highlight or undermine characterizations such as age, gender, profession, religion, social status? Is there a personalized production of textiles (gender, age, family, religion)? How is the process of perception and cognition engaged in the design and wearing of personalized textiles, and how can it be studied?

2. INTELLIGENT TEXTILES
What are textiles and clothes optimized for? How textiles and clothes are optimized through time, and what are the different strategies engaged? Do clothes have memory? Can we retrace from them someone’s behaviour, movement, and health, for example? Are clothes multifunctional? If yes, in which extent? And how can this be studied? How do clothes and textiles regulate, ease, assist? Which mechanics and mechanisms are involved in intelligent textiles? In which extent are textiles conceived to be less impactful for the body and the environment?

3. DIGITAL TEXTILES
Which digital tools can be used for smart textiles’ research and conception? How digital tools can enhance our understanding of smart textiles and fibres? How can they help to improve research on smart textiles and clothes? How can they intensify personalization and intelligence of textiles? What are the possibilities offered, but also the problems encountered with the use of digital tools in textile research? How digital tools can help procession of textiles and clothes?

The conference is thought as an exploratory fruitful dialogue, with insights and stimulation, between discoveries and understanding of ancient textiles production and use, and the latest research and discoveries in modern textile performance and clothes properties, resistance, and consumption. This 3-day conference will be organized in collaboration between the HALMA laboratory (UMR 8164), the ENSAIT in Roubaix (Textile Engineering School), the National Work Archives in Roubaix (Archives Nationales du Monde du Travail) and the CETI in Tourcoing (Centre Européen des Textiles Innovants).

This exceptional collaboration builds on the history of textile production, groundbreaking research and innovation that have been at the heart of the French region Nord for centuries. The attendees and speakers of the conference will have a privileged access to current experiments and trainings held at the ENSAIT and the CETI, as well as unprecedented exhibitions and dissemination events organized at the National Work Archives in Roubaix for “2022, Year of Textile in the region Nord”.

The proposals are to be sent to the organizers of the event (audrey.gouy@univ-lille.fr) before January 31st, 2022. Notifications of acceptance will be sent at the beginning of February 2022. The event will take place in Lille, Roubaix and Tourcoing on April 27-28-29-30, 2022. The language of the conference will be English.

Organizers: Dr. Audrey Gouy (University of Lille and HALMA UMR 8164, France) and Yann Lorin (INRAP – Institut National de Recherches Archéologiques Préventives)

Scientific committee: Prof. Philippe Abrahami (University of Lille and HALMA UMR 8164, France), Prof. Eva Andersson Strand (University of Copenhagen, Denmark, and Director of the Centre of Excellence for Textile Research), Prof. Marie Louise Bech Nosch (University of Copenhagen, Denmark), Prof. Frédérique Blaizot (University of Lille and HALMA, UMR 8164), Dr. Pascal Denizart (Director of the CETI, Centre Européen des Textiles Innovants in Tourcoing, France), Prof. Prof. Eric Devaux (Director of the ENSAIT, France), Dr. Audrey Gouy (University of Lille and HALMA UMR 8164, France), Prof. Sandrine Huber (Director of HALMA UMR 8164, University of Lille, France), Yann Lorin (INRAP – Institut National de Recherches Archéologiques Préventives). Prof. Isabelle Paresys (University of Lille and IRHIS, UMR 8529), Dr. Corinne Porte (Director of the Archives Nationales du Monde du Travail in Roubaix, France).

International Conference “Smart Textiles from Antiquity to Modern Times” – Full Call for Contributions