ON RESEARCH AND CAREER PATHWAYS IN TEXTILE HERITAGE: FINDING RELEVANCE & APPLYING FOR FUNDING

 29^th – 30^th of July 2024

Registration form available here.

Organization:

COST Action EuroWeb – Europe through Textiles (CA19131)

Organizing Committee:

Francisco B. Gomes (University of Lisbon, PT),

Agata Ulanowska (University of Warsaw, PL),

Marie-Louise Nosch (University of Copenhagen – Centre for Textile Research, DK)

& Riina Rammo (University of Tartu, EE)

***

Nowadays, work on Textile Heritage takes place in an increasingly competitive research ecosystem. In a context where resources are often limited, and even insufficient, researchers are increasingly called upon to justify the relevance of their research, not just for their specific scientific field, but also in regard to broad societal challenges.

This Training School aims to offer Early Career scholars and innovators some insights on how to raise the profile of their research by reflecting on how it can connect with current concerns shared by a larger audience.

In particular, it will cover the potential implications for Textile Heritage research of new European policies regarding the sustainability of the textile sector, reflecting on potential synergies with other stakeholders in the economic and political arenas. Other facets of the potential social and political relevance of work in the textile field will also be addressed.

This Training School will also serve as a venue for exchanging experiences regarding the application and management of research projects related to Textile Heritage. A roaster of experts with experience on this topic will share their insights and offer practical advice to future applicants.

Finally, it will also act as the launch of a new EuroWeb mentorship programme, in which experienced mentors will offer the benefit of their experience to Early Career researchers looking to develop their career further by applying for grants or funding for research projects.

***

 PROGRAMME

 Day 1 – 29/07

 Session 1

09:00 – 09:45 CET

Current trends in European policy relating to the textiles and fashion sector: potential implications for Textile Heritage research

Francisco B. Gomes

 09:45 – 10:00 CET

COFFEE BREAK

 Session 2

10:00 – 11:30 CET

Project Showcases

11:30 – 12:00 CET

Incorporating Science Communication and Outreach into Research Projects: Insights from the EuroWeb Communication Strategy

Francisco B. Gomes

12:00 – 14:00 CET

LUNCH BREAK

Session 3

14:00 – 15:00 CET

Break-out Group Discussions

15:00 – 16:00 CET

Presentations and Joint Discussion

Day 2 – 30/07

Session 4

09:00 – 10:30 CET

Preparing and Writing Competitive CVs and Grant Applications

Marie-Louise Nosch

10:30 – 10:45 CET

COFFEE BREAK

Session 5

10:45 – 13:30 CET

Sharing Experiences with Grant Applications and Management

13:30 – 15:00

LUNCH BREAK

15:00 – 17:00

One-on-one mentorship sessions

Full programme available here.

***

For any practical questions regarding the Training School and the programme, please contact Francisco B. Gomes (franciscojbgomes@gmail.com).

If you are

An experienced researcher in the academic field

and you would like to be a mentor for a young scholar in Textile Heritage

please apply for a Virtual Mobility Grant

by July, the 23rd 2024

Up to ten grants (up to 1450 euros) can be awarded for mentor positions.

Mentor’s tasks within the Virtual Mobility Grant:

● Building and transfer of knowledge through collaboration
● Generating capacity building and new skills
● Possible impact on career development
● Developing science communication and project writing skills
● Feedback on mentee’s research aims and methods
● First online meeting in the 30st of July 2024
● Virtual meetings (at least two) with a mentee in August

Applying:

● Eligibility: All Action’s participant(s) with a primary affiliation to an institution located in a COST Full Member country and has/have to be affiliated to at least one of the working groups
● The application shall be submitted in e-COST (https://e-services.cost.eu/user/login) and included among other things the following information:

○ Working plan: topics and activities offered by the mentor
○ Plan for participation: mentor’s professional skills, expectations for mentee
○ Expected outputs: how the grant supports young researcher’s career

The template for the grant application is available here.

● Please read also the call for mentees:

https://euroweb.uw.edu.pl/news/members-and-research/upcoming-euroweb-mentorship-
programme-call-for-prospective-mentees/

Contact for assistance: Riina Rammo (riina.rammo@ut.ee)

Full call is available here.

● designing your future career (in academia or other fields)
● developing science communication and project writing skills
● getting professional feedback on your research (plans/questions/methods)
● getting inspiration and new perspectives for your research
● coping with stress in academia

… this call is for you!

EuroWeb is planning a mentorship program for young and early career researchers in Textile Heritage that will start at the end of July with a training school and continue with personal meetings with a mentor.

Please indicate your interest in being a mentee by 8 July by sending an e-mail to riina.rammo@ut.ee

Please add your name, research topic(s), affiliation (if possible), and position, as well as a short description of your needs (problems to discuss, information gaps).

Organizing committee:
Agata Ulanowska, Francisco B. Gomes, Riina Rammo & Marie-Louise Nosch

20th-21st June 2024

Fundação Oriente – Museu do Oriente
Avenida Brasília, Doca de Alcântara (Norte)
1350-352 Lisboa, Portugal

Organizing committee:
João Teles e Cunha (Centro de Estudos Clássicos, FL da Universidade de Lisboa)
Maria João Ferreira (Museu de São Roque; CHAM – NOVA FCSH)
Joana Sequeira (Lab2PT/IN2Past, Universidade do Minho)
Ana Claro (CHAM – Centre for Humanities, NOVA FCSH)

PROGRAMME

Thursday, June 20th, 2024

9h45 Arrival and inscription
10h00 Opening session

1st Morning session – Influence of Asian techniques – Chair: Joana Sequeira 

10h15
Jane Malcolm-Davies (University of Copenhagen, Denmark) and Beatrice Behlen (Museum of London, UK)

A mingle mangle of material: sources for studying silk fibers and knitted silk garments in early modern Asia and Europe

10h40
Cristina Scibè (University of Seville, Spain), Caroline Solazzo (Independent researcher, Italy) and Thomas Lam (Smithsonian Institution, USA)

Gold threads manufacture across Euro-Asian territories: a comparative study of a group of fourteenth-century silk and gold lampas of Italian, Persian, and Central Asian manufacture

11h20 Coffee-break

2nd Morning session – Influence of Asian techniques – Chair: Joana Sequeira

11h40
Mingzhu Lyu (University of Zurich, Switzerland)

Mongol silks and lampas weaving in fourteenth and fifteenth-century Italy: a case study on the medieval vestments from the church of St Nikolai in Stralsund

12h05
Éva Deák (Eötvös Loránd University, Hungary)

Ottoman Turkish Influences on Hungarian Clothing (1526-1686)

12h45 Lunch break

1st Afternoon session – Dyeing Practices – Chair: Ana Claro

14h30
Mila Crippa (LAVQ-REQUIMTE, NOVA FCT, Portugal), Paula Nabais (LAVQ-REQUIMTE, NOVA FCT, Portugal) and Dominique Cardon (CIHAM-UMR5648, CNRS, France)

Lac Dye Colours: from Prestige to Prohibition. Historical Insight into International Trades and Dyeing Practices in Europe from Medieval to Early Modern Times

14h55
Rachel Silberstein (University of Washington, USA)

A Cheaper Shade of Scarlet: the East India Company, Chinese Consumers, and Global Product Research

15h35 Coffee-break

2nd Afternoon session – Commodities of substitution – Chair: Maria João Ferreira

16h00
Ana Barros Graça (FCSH, NOVA University of Lisbon, Portugal)

How the impressive Asian textiles were “replaced” by Portuguese society from the sixteenth to eighteenth centuries: An approach to a substitute production – the vegetalist and floral Portuguese-Asian colchas.

16h25
Philip A. Sykas (Manchester Metropolitan University, UK)

Palaces and patchworks: export prints of Strines Printing Company, 1868-1881.

17h20 Visit to the Museu do Oriente’s textile collection

Each speaker has 25 minutes and there will be 15 minutes at the end of each session for debate

Friday, June 21st, 2024

10h00 Overview of COST reimbursement practices

10h30 Coffee-break

1st Morning session – Trade, taste, and consumption – Chair: Maria João Ferreira

11h00
Ana Pires (Centro de Investigação em Património, Educação e Cultura, Castelo Branco, Portugal)

The Tree of Life and the Embroidery of Castelo Branco’s Bedspreads

11h25
Dries Debackere (University of Ghent, Belgium)

Domestic Cashmere. The Re-Use of Indian and European Cashmere Shawls in Interior Gowns and Furnishings, c. 1870-1900

11h50
Mei Mei Rado (Bard Graduate Center: Decorative Arts, Design History, Material Culture, USA)

Japanese textile Fragments, Lyonnais Silks, and Fashion

12h30 Lunch break

1st Afternoon session – Trade, taste, and consumption – Chair: João Teles e Cunha

14h30
Adith Vijayan Sheeba (University of Calicut, India) and Assis Mon Marcelin (University of Hyderabad, India)

The Plebian’s Exoticism?

14h55
Swamantak Ganguly (Amity University Kolkata, India)

The circular relationship between the European and South Asian textile markets and its social after-effects in the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries

15h35 Coffee-break

Closing conference

16h05
Giorgio Riello (European University Institute, Florence, Italy)

Factories, Fabrics, and Factories: Cotton Textile Procurement in India and European Industrialisation, c. 1650-1800.

17h10 Closing session

The full programme for the Conference is available here.

Concluding Conference for COST Action “EuroWeb – Europe through Textiles” (CA19131) 

Warsaw, 20th-21st of May 2024

The Organising Team:

Agata Ulanowska (PL)
Karina Grömer (AT)
Marie-Louise Nosch (DK)
Christina Margariti (EL)
Magdalena Woźniak (PL)
Louise Quillien (FR)
Francesco Meo (IT)
Francisco B. Gomes (PT)
Riina Rammo (EE)
Cécile Michel (FR)
Hana Lukesova (NO)
Catarina Costeira (PT)
Alina Iancu (RO)

With the assistance of Marcin Wagner, Iwona Zielińska and Katarzyna Żebrowska (all PL)

Grant Holder and Local Organiser:

University of Warsaw
Faculty of Archaeology, University of Warsaw

Co-organising Institutions:

Polish Centre of Mediterranean Archaeology, University of Warsaw
University of Warsaw Museum

Supporting Institutions:

National Ethnographic Museum in Warsaw
National Museum in Warsaw

***

PROGRAMME

Monday, 20th of May

08:30-09:00 – Registration

Session 1

09:00-09:30 – Welcome from the organisers and the authorities of the Faculty of Archaeology and University of Warsaw

09:30-09:50 – Agata Ulanowska

After EuroWeb: action chair’s personal reflections on EuroWeb achievements and future

09:50-10:10 – Christina Margariti, Tina Chanialaki, Maria-Emmanuela Alberti and Agata Ulanowska

Working Group 1 Textile Technologies: an overview of the actions and future perspectives

10:10-10:30 – Magdalena Woźniak, Paula Nabais and Cecilie Brøns

Working Group 2 Clothing Identities: Gender, Age and Status. Summary and future perspectives

10:30-10:50 – Discussion

10:50-11:10 – Coffee Break

Session 2

11:10-11:30 – Louise Quillien, Susanne Lervad and Joana Sequeira

The EuroWeb collaborative research on textiles and clothing terminologies: results and further prospects

11:30-11:50 – Dimitra Andrianou, Elena Miramontes and Louise Quillien

Textile terminologies in Antiquity: the terminology of soft furnishings as a case study for the development of a comparative approach

11:50-12:10 – Amine Haj Taieb

Innovative methodologies and interdisciplinary approaches for preserving textile heritage in North Africa

12:10-12:30 – Catarina Costeira, Paula Nabais, Joana Sequeira and Francisco B. Gomes

Textile heritage research in Portugal: assessing the impact and legacy of EuroWeb in a COSTITC Country

12:30-12:50 – Discussion

12:50-14:30 – Lunch Break

Session 3

14:30-14:50 – Natalia Ortega Saez and Judith Goris

Sharing current and future perspectives for textile conservation studies and material technical research in Belgium

14:50-15:10 – Eglė Kumpikaitė and Daiva Milašienė

EuroWeb echoes in Kaunas University of Technology Research

15:10-15:30 – Karina Grömer, Kayleigh Saunderson and Elisabeth Trinkl

Scientific networking and science communication – Reflections on EuroWeb activities of the Austrian team

15:30-15:50 – Francesco Giaquinto, Francesco Meo, Gianluca Tagliamonte and Tiziana Zappatore

From theory to practice: towards the creation of new brands based on ancient textile production

15:50-16:10 – Discussion

16:10-16:30 – Coffee Break

Session 4

16:30-16:50 – Emanuela Alberti

From experimental to public archaeology following the Minoan loom-weights

16:50-17:10 – Irina Petroviciu

Understanding the present as tool to shape the future. Online survey on national textile networks in EuroWeb countries

17:10-17:30 – Agnieszka Jacobson-Cielecka, Karl Innemée, Magdalena Woźniak, Dorota Roqueplo, Katarzyna Schmidt-Przewoźna and Dobrochna Zielińska

How does it feel to be dressed in Authority? Reconstructing Nubian official costumes

17:30-17:50 – Alina Iancu, Catarina Costeira and Francisco B. Gomes

The Digital Atlas of European Textile Heritage: origins, development and challenges after EuroWeb

17:50-18:10 – Francisco B. Gomes

Envisioning the legacy of EuroWeb: thoughts on possible paths forward

18:10-18:30 – Discussion

19:00-21:00 – Reception

Tuesday, 21st of May

10:00-12:00 – “After EuroWeb” table ronde

12:00-13:45 – Lunch Break

14:00 – Guided tour to the National Ethnographic Museum

16:30-18:00 – MC Meeting in the Ball Room of the Tyszkiewicz-Potocki Palace

18:30 – Guided tour to the Central Campus of the University of Warsaw

Full Programme and Book of Abstracts available EuroWeb conference_programme and BofA.

***

TRAINING SCHOOL

6-8 May 2024 — University of Iceland, Reykjavik (Iceland)

Event proposed by Working Group 3, Textile Terminologies
Organizing committee, Working Groups 1-4: Meghan Korten (University of Iceland, local organizer), Louise Quillien (CNRS, France), Christina Margariti (Hellenic Ministry of Culture), Magdalena Wozniak (University of Warsaw), and Francesco Meo (University of Salento).

***

Knitting with wool and other fibres has a long tradition, expressed in diverse forms across Europe. The simplicity of the tools used in knitting have made it a more accessible textile craft across social strata and a useful practice for people on the move. Despite the minimal requirement of tools, one can use a range of equipment, techniques, and colours and types of yarn to produce different types of clothing and accessories. People in the past have knitted garments to clothe themselves and to communicate messages of personal expression and community identity.

This three-day training school on knitting techniques, fibre, and terminology aims to gather a diverse group of participants to get a sense of shared heritage and experiences of textiles as it relates to knitting and wool. The objective of the course is to familiarize the participants with the diversity of language and regional differences in knitting practices over time in Europe, with the goal of sharing knowledge and expertise in order to bridge theoretical and methodological approaches.

This event aims to address the following topics:

• Is there a universal knitting language? Comparisons of regional, national, and international knitting terminology
• Historical development of knitting: regional and cross-regional styles, influence, technology transfer, and living cultural heritage
• Knitting and identity: colour work, motifs, iconography, toponyms, and terminology linked to personal and regional identities
• Impact of fibre choices on knitting and other textile crafts
• Knitting, knit wear, and codified knowledge: individuals, institutions, companies, databases
• Knitting Today: knitwear designers, independent yarn dyers, natural dyeing, pattern design
• Other topics relating to historical, museum display, archival, and living history examples of knitting and knitwear.

***

PROGRAMME

Monday May 6:

Session 1–Knitting and Wool Fibre

9:00-9:10: open, sign-in, introductions, coffee

9:10-9:20: Meghan Korten (University of Iceland, IS) – Introductory presentation

9:20-9:35: Francisco B. Gomes (University of Lisbon, PT) – The Archaeology of Wool: A Brief Introduction to its Origins and Development

9:35-10:50: Christina Margariti (Hellenic Ministry of Culture and Sports, GR) – Fibre Identification workshop

10:50-11:15: Refreshment Break

11:15-12:30: Jane Malcolm-Davies (University of Copenhagen) – Knit Identification workshop

12:30-13:30: Lunch Break

13:30-16:00: (optional) Field trip to Ístex factory: Völuteigur 6, 270 Mosfellsbær
(https://istex.is/en/um-okkur/)

Tuesday May 7:

Session 2–Knitting and Knitwear

9:30-10:00: open, sign-in, coffee

10:00-11:00: Presentation: Juha Vehmaanperä (independent, Finland): contemporary knitwear designer, artist, & teacher

11:30-12:30: Trainee Presentations:

• Joana Sequeira (Lab2PT, University of Minho, PT)
• Natalia Ortega Saez (University of Antwerp, BE)
• Orsolya Zay (Dóbo István Vármúzeum, HU)
• Jenni Suomela (University of Helsinki, FI)

12:40-13:40: Lunch Break

13:40-15:30: Knitting Practical 1

14:20-14:40: Refreshment Break

15:30-17:00: (optional) Visit Handknitted Association of Iceland, Borgartún 31, 105 Reykjavík

18:30: (optional) Group dinner @ Rök Restaurant (Frakkastígur 26a, 101 Reykjavík https://www.rokrestaurant.is/dinnermenu – note that the restaurant is opposite to the famous Hallgrimskirkja church)

Wednesday May 8:

Session 3–Knitting and Terminology

9:30-9:45: Open, sign-in, coffee

9:45-10:45: Presentation: Ásdís Jóelsdóttir (Assistant Professor in Textile and Design, University of Iceland, IS)

10:45-11:05: Refreshment break

11:05-12:20: Presentation: Louise Quillien (French National Centre for Scientific Research, FR): WG3 terminology website and list

12:20-13:30: Lunch Break

13:30-14:10: Trainee Presentations:

• Marisa Kerbizi (Aleksander Moisiu University, AL)
• Klara Dankova (Università Cattolica del Sacro Cuore, IT)
• Fjoralba Satka (Aleksander Moisiu University, AL)

14:10-16:10: Knitting practical 2

14:30-14:50: Refreshment Break

16:15-16:45: Closing roundtable and goodbyes

16:45-17:00: Overview of COST reimbursement practicalities

***

Call for Applications

One grant up to EUR 3000 can be awarded within the 4th Grant Period.

Activities must be performed and the report submitted by September, the 15th 2024.

The deadline for sending an application is March, the 11th 2024. The application must be submitted via e-cost platform (https://e-services.cost.eu/activity/grants).

STSMs consist of visiting a host institution in a different country than the applicant’s to implement a project with an international team and gaining new knowledge or access to equipment or techniques unavailable in the home institution. Grant provides a contribution for travelling, accommodation and subsistence expenses, project implementation, and report delivery to the COST Action.

WHO CAN APPLY
Applicant is an Action participant with a primary affiliation to an institution located in a COST Full

Member country and has to be affiliated to at least one of the Working Groups.

The activities should support:

• Building and transfer of knowledge through collaboration
• Mentoring that can generate capacity building and new skills
• Harmonization and standardization of methods and procedures
• Compiling research benefitting the action’s aims and objectives
• Collaboration across disciplines and different sectors, with possible impact on career development
• Open-access joint publications and new projects as outcomes

APPLICATION
The application shall be submitted in e-COST (https://e-services.cost.eu/user/login) and include the following information:

• Main goals of the STSM
• Working Plan: Description of the work to be carried out
• Expected outputs: results and their contribution to the Action’s objectives
• Confirmation of the host institution’s availability to receive the applicant

SELECTION CRITERIA
• STSM’s contribution to the overall objectives of the Action.
• Clearly expressed and realistic benefits to the Action and its deliverables
• In the case of equivalent applications, the COST Excellence and Inclusiveness Policy will be implemented

Information and assistance: Riina Rammo (riina.rammo@ut.ee)

The full call for applications can be found here.

TRAINING SCHOOL

6-8 May 2024 — University of Iceland, Reykjavik (Iceland)

Event proposed by Working Group 3, Textile Terminologies
Organizing committee, Working Groups 1-4: Meghan Korten (University of Iceland, local organizer), Louise Quillien (CNRS, France), Christina Margariti (Hellenic Ministry of Culture), Magdalena Wozniak (University of Warsaw), and Francesco Meo (University of Salento).

***

Knitting with wool and other fibres has a long tradition, expressed in diverse forms across Europe. The simplicity of the tools used in knitting have made it a more accessible textile craft across social strata and a useful practice for people on the move. Despite the minimal requirement of tools, one can use a range of equipment, techniques, and colours and types of yarn to produce different types of clothing and accessories. People in the past have knitted garments to clothe themselves and to communicate messages of personal expression and community identity.

This three-day training school on knitting techniques, fibre, and terminology aims to gather a diverse group of participants to get a sense of shared heritage and experiences of textiles as it relates to knitting and wool. The objective of the course is to familiarize the participants with the diversity of language and regional differences in knitting practices over time in Europe, with the goal of sharing knowledge and expertise in order to bridge theoretical and methodological approaches.

This event aims to address the following topics:

• Is there a universal knitting language? Comparisons of regional, national, and international knitting terminology
• Historical development of knitting: regional and cross-regional styles, influence, technology transfer, and living cultural heritage
• Knitting and identity: colour work, motifs, iconography, toponyms, and terminology linked to personal and regional identities
• Impact of fibre choices on knitting and other textile crafts
• Knitting, knit wear, and codified knowledge: individuals, institutions, companies, databases
• Knitting Today: knitwear designers, independent yarn dyers, natural dyeing, pattern design
• Other topics relating to historical, museum display, archival, and living history examples of knitting and knitwear.

This training school will offer a combination of lectures, participant presentations, and hands-on practice:

• specific regional knitting practices and language
• wool fibre identification
• sharing history and heritage of knitting techniques and technologies
• developing a shared knitting terminology
• theoretical training on knitting: terminology, techniques, fibres, tools
• practical training in knitting techniques

Eligibility: Trainees eligible to be reimbursed:

• Member of Euroweb with an e-COST account,
• Trainees shall be engaged in an official research programme such as a PhD student or postdoctoral fellow or can be employed by, or affiliated to, an institution, organization, or legal entity which has within its remit a clear association with performing research.
• Trainees from COST Full Members/ COST Cooperating Members
• Action MC Observer from NNC
• Trainees from Approved European RTD Organisations

Costs: If possible, travel costs and daily allowances (including accommodation, meals, etc.) will be covered. Expenses will be covered first and foremost for PhD students, ECI (Early Career Investigators), and researchers from ITC (Inclusiveness Target Countries).

Application: Following the rules of COST training schools, interested trainees are kindly asked to apply, before the 31st of January 2024, sending a short motivation letter and a CV to mak77@hi.is and louise.quillien@gmail.com.

We can offer a maximum of 8 positions — the selection of the candidates will be processed by the Core Group. We especially encourage the application of ECI and PhD students. Participation costs will be refunded by COST to each eligible applicant — please check that you are a member of Euroweb registered on the e-COST platform only members can be reimbursed.

Full Call for Papers available HERE.

Concluding Conference for COST Action “EuroWeb – Europe through Textiles” (CA19131) 

Call for Papers 

It is our pleasure to announce the Call for Papers for the EuroWeb concluding conference titled “After EuroWeb: Expanding Horizons in Textile Studies and European Networking”, which will be held at the University of Warsaw, Poland, from 20th to 21st May 2024. 

This gathering will serve as a moment of reflection, celebration, and anticipation for the future. Beyond summarising EuroWeb’s achievements and acknowledging the commitments outlined in the Memorandum of Understanding, as well as our failures, we are particularly keen to explore if and how EuroWeb has reshaped textile studies across Europe. 

We especially welcome you to share your observations on whether EuroWeb has paved the way for new areas of textile research. Have we collectively identified uncharted territories, innovative methodologies, or interdisciplinary approaches that may reshaped the fabric of textile studies? We look to hear your reflections on whether EuroWeb has succeeded in bridging gaps between academia, craftspeople, industry, and stakeholders. What lessons can we draw from these interactions for future collaborations? Share your perspectives on whether EuroWeb has played a role in shaping a new vision for textiles. Have our collaborative efforts led to a reimagining of the role of textiles in society, culture, and industry? How can we build on the foundations laid by EuroWeb to foster ongoing collaboration, knowledge exchange, and community building in the realm of textile studies? 

The conference will comprise a regular session with maximum 28 oral presentations and a table ronde open to all conference participants and the present EuroWeb members. The conference will be followed by the Management Committee Meeting on 21st May 2024 (16:30–18:10 CET). 

Proposals for 20-minute oral presentations should include an abstract in English, with a maximum length of 300 words, as well as the presenter’s personal details (title/degree, name, affiliation, email address, and, if available, ORCID ID number).  

Deadline 

The deadline for submitting proposals is 22nd March 2024. Please send your submissions to: euroweb.cost@uw.edu.pl or a.ulanowska@uw.edu.pl.  

Important dates: 

Deadline for submitting proposals: March 22nd, 2024 

Approval of proposals: March 31st, 2024 

Please mark these dates in your calendar to ensure timely submission of proposals! 

The Organisers 

Agata Ulanowska, Karina Grömer, Marie-Louise Nosch, Christina Margariti, Magdalena Woźniak, Louise Quillien, Francesco Meo, Francisco B. Gomes, Riina Rammo, Cécile Michel, Hana Lukesova, Catarina Costeira, and Alina Iancu 

Grant Holder and Local Organisers:

University of Warsaw

Faculty of Archaeology of the University of Warsaw

University of Warsaw Museum

The full call for papers for this conference can be downloaded here.º

Lists and Inventories of Textiles from Ancient to Modern Times

Online, 9th-10th October 2023

To attend, please write to : louise.quillien@gmail.com, sequeira.joana@gmail.com, dandr@eie.gr

Organising committee:

Dimitra Andrianou (GR), National Hellenistic Research Foundation
Louise Quillien (FR), CNRS, ArScAn laboratory
Joana Sequeira (PT), Lab2PT, University of Minho

Host Institution:

ArScAn laboratory, UMR 7041, MSH Mondes, 21 allée de l’Université, 92000 Nanterre, France.
CA 19131 Euroweb – WG3 Textile and Clothing Terminologies

Lists and inventories form an important part of the historical written sources concerning textiles, from the beginning of writing to the catalogues and databases of textiles artefacts kept in Museums. The objective of this workshop is to focus on this particular type of text as
a material for writing textiles history. Textile lists and inventories can be defined as texts, written on different media, recording objects made of textiles one beside or under the other. The particularity of these documents lies on their specific format, and on their content which
is often allusive. However, these lists and inventories are found across time and it is therefore important to conduct a comparative study in order to understand what historical data can be drawn from these texts.

The following points will be addressed:

– What kind of information can be found in textile lists and inventories: terminology of textiles, way of describing these objects (material, colour, type, price, etc.), way of numbering them (weight, quantity, etc.), ownership and uses of these objects, etc.

– Is there a specific order, a classification or hierarchy in the way the inventories are made (from the more expensive to the cheaper, from outer to inner garments, order based according to the owners, etcetera).

– Is the classification based on the format, layout, writing of such documents (tables, rows, columns etc.)? Are these rules determining the contents, and the missing information?

– Who commissioned the writing of these texts and for what purpose? Who made the inventory in practice? Who keep/archived these texts, for how many time and why? What can we deduce for the value of textiles in these ancient societies?

PROGRAMME

Monday 9th October

NOTE: ALL SCHEDULES ARE ON CENTRAL EUROPEAN TIME (Paris Time)

9h00 – 9h30 : Introduction

Session 1: Lists and Inventories of textiles in Antiquity

Chair: Susanne Lervad

9h30 – 10h00 : Tina Boloti (National and Kapodistrian University of Athens), “Textile records in the Mycenaean palaces”;
10h00 – 10h30 : Louise Quillien (CNRS, ArScAn laboratory, France), “Lists and inventories of textiles in 6th century BCE Babylonia”;

10h30 – 11h00 : BREAK

11h00 – 11h30 : Ergün Lafli (Dokuz Eylül University, Izmir), “Classical epigraphic references on textile inventories”;
11h30 – 12h00 : Dimitra Andrianou (National Hellenistic Research Foundation), “Furnishings in ancient Greek temple inventories and private lists”;

12h00 – 13h30 : LUNCH BREAK

Session 2: Medieval inventories of churches and religious personnel

Chair: Joana Sequeira

13h30 – 14h00 : Meghan Korten (University of Iceland), “Textiles Listed in Medieval Icelandic Documentary Sources”;
14h00 – 14h30 : Milena Bravermanová & Helena Březinová (Institute of Archaeology of the Czech Academy of Sciences, Prague), “Medieval textiles in the inventories of the St Vitus Church Treasury at Prague Castle”.

Session 3: Household textiles in Medieval and Early modern times: dowries, testaments, and accounts

Chair: Dimitra Andrianou

14h30 – 15h00 : Valentina Costantini & Serena Galasso (University of Glasgow), “Listing pannos, garments and household linen in testaments and inventories: a perspective from the Tuscan Archives (13th-16th c.)”

15h00 – 15h15 : BREAK

15h15 – 15h45 : Aina Palarea Marimon (independent researcher), “Weaving Words: Clothing and Textiles in Fifteenth-Century Catalan After-Death Inventories”;
15h45 – 16h15 : Cláudia Costa Pires (Faculty of Arts and Humanities of University of Porto), “The wardrobe and textiles in the dowry of Beatrice of Portugal, Duchess of Savoy (1504-1538)”;
16h15 – 16h45 : Jasemin Nazim (Museum of Macedonia – Skopje), “Data on Fabrics, Garments and Household Textiles in the Ottoman Judicial Records –  Sicils from Bitola/Monastir (17th and 19th c.)”.

Tuesday 10th October

9h00 – 9h30 : Roxana Coman (Royal Historical Society in London), “Inheriting textiles. Dowry and estate inventories in the research on 18th century textiles in Wallachia”;

Sessions 4: Lists of textiles in commercial and fiscal sources, Early modern period

Chair: Joana Sequeira

9h30 – 10h00 : Lluís Sales i Favà (IEM – Universidade Nova de Lisboa), “Woolen cloth in the accounts of the Lleuda de Mediona, the main tax on trade in the city of Barcelona (c.1430-1500)”;
10h00 – 10h30 : Francesco Guidi-Bruscoli (University of Florence), “Account-books and business documents as a source for the study of textiles in the Renaissance (15th-16th c.)”;

10h30 – 11h00 : BREAK

11h00 – 11h30 : João Teles e Cunha (Centre for Classical Studies, School of Arts and Humanities, University of Lisbon), “The inventories of Nossa Senhora da Luz shipwreck (1615) as a way to study Asian textile trade to early modern Europe”;

Session 5: Inventories and lists in museum contexts

Chair: Louise Quillien

11h30- 12h00 : Anne Labourdette (Musée du Louvre), “Recorded on lists of looted art: the “OAR” tapestries”;

12h00 – 13h30 : LUNCH BREAK

13h30 – 14h00 : Ieva Pigozne (Institute of Latvian History, University of Latvia), “Inventory and Index Cards as a Source: Case of the 19th-20th Century Textiles at the National History Museum of Latvia”;
14h00 – 14h30 : Agnès Bos (Musée du Louvre), “On various documents listing the textiles of the Order of the Holy Spirit (1580s)”.

Session 6: From ancient documents to modern databases

Chair: Kalliope Sarri

14h30 – 15h00 : Jane Malcolm-Davies (University of Copenhagen & The Tudor Tailor), “Add-dressing data in documents: Taking a quantitative approach to evidence for early modern dyes”;

15h00 – 15h15 : BREAK

15h15 – 15h45 : Paula Nabais (Associated Laboratory for Green Chemistry REQUIMTE and Department of Conservation and Restauration, NOVA School for Sciences and Technology, Portugal) with the contribution of Rita Salvado, Graça Filipe, Elisa Pinheiro, and Helena Correia, “REVIVE and the ARQUEOTEX database: the production of uniforms for the Portuguese army in the Pombaline Royal Manufacture of Wool of Covilhã, 1764-1850”;

15h45 – 16h15 : discussion and conclusion

Full programme available here.